Canonical_Warlock
@Canonical_Warlock@lemmy.dbzer0.com
- Comment on So glad I suck dick 1 day ago:
Or maybe it’s sarcasm between partners you fun hating turnip.
- Comment on Alexa, how do I remove cooties? 2 days ago:
Don’t destroying angel mushrooms basically stop your body from making proteins? That’s roughly the same net effect as RNA stopping working so it should give you a pretty good approximation.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 4 days ago:
Pretty cool device.
That’s the exact reason I snagged it as soon as I saw it in the scrap pile with no idea what I would ever use it for. Aparently they work really well but I’ve never had the opporitunity to work on a machine with one installed.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 4 days ago:
It do fit so I guess it do sit.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 4 days ago:
Inside the ice machine it pulls in air from near the ice making sheet, runs it across the bulb, and spits the air back out above the water distribution bar above the ice making sheet. Similar devices from other manufacturers will pull the air from all the way down in the ice bin to circulate it inside the bin as well.
As far as it being an enclosed space, ice machines are fairly sealed but are frequently opened to access the ice in the bin. They’re less sealed than your average refrigerator.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 4 days ago:
I spent nearly 30 years of my life with unmedicated ADHD and ocasionally it works to my benefit.
Also still working on the 240V power thing. I just need to have disposable income first.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 5 days ago:
It’s not pure oxygen. It’s basically just ionizing the oxygen in the air. From what I understand it works similarly to an ozone generator but is slightly different.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 5 days ago:
Ice machine do use a lot of plastic but it is usually designed to be more robust due to the cleaners used so it may be different from the stuff used in a fridge.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 5 days ago:
Nope. They run all the time. They literally just get wired direct to the hot side of the main contactor in the machine. If the machine has power the luminice unit is running.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 5 days ago:
That’s what I thought they were at first too but aparently there is a difference. A cold oxygen plasma generator does produce ozone but aparently it also does other stuff. I’m not sure on the exact science but it isn’t just an ozone generator.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 5 days ago:
I want to. I have a spare minifridge so I may run some trials with that. Unfortunately it’ll need to wait a bit because the Luminice unit needs a new bulb and I don’t have that kind of money on hand at the moment.
- Comment on Can I put a cold oxygen plasma generator in my fridge? 5 days ago:
That’s what I’m kind of wondering. Maybe I should try it out with my minifridge first.
- Submitted 5 days ago to [deleted] | 25 comments
- Comment on Anon is unaware he's at risk for a heart attack 1 week ago:
Only if you’re a bottom.
- Comment on ‘Britain’s most tattooed man’ claims he is unable to watch p*rn as 'new age check system mistakes his ink for a mask' | Need To Know 1 week ago:
No, you’ve got it all wrong. It’s good opera etiquette to jerk off at the opera to show that you’re enjoying it. Etiquette doesn’t demand the preopera wank; it’s just so you have better endurance for your proper opera wank.
- Comment on Cheat Codes Activated 1 week ago:
non work hours
- Comment on Cheat Codes Activated 1 week ago:
There are pros to working in my field for femboys though. For one example, regularly lugging an 80lb pack of tools up and down roof access ladders has given me calves and thighs that could make a person weep. Femboys are also typically better equipped for working in confined spaces. Additionally, having ready access to a hardhat, hi-vis vest, clipboard, and toolbelt enables so many crimes. I can also see some of my hi-vis workwear having serious potential as club wear with a bit of modification.
- Comment on Cheat Codes Activated 1 week ago:
I tried the nail polish thing but I work with too many chemicals that strip paint for it to last more than a day. Rings are also a big no no in my job because I work with electricity. I guess I could do eye shaddow but my eyelids are naturally dark enough that I’ve already been accused of wearing it before.
Skirts on the otherhand would be excelent for keeping me cool. Just might not be great for my coworker following me up the roof ladder.
- Comment on As expected every page in the book is blank 3 weeks ago:
That one is excelent for starting fires in survival situations though.
- Comment on [deleted] 3 weeks ago:
At that point why not just declare bankruptcy? If he was couch surfing then he had no assets to lose. Sure bankruptcy fucks your credit for a while but it’s better than having nothing and still having your wage garnished. That’s literally the situation that bankruptcy exists for. If you somehow get yourself in a truely irrecoverable amount of debt then it’s your get out of jail relatively free card.
- Comment on Financially rewarding and you will always have a job 4 weeks ago:
Then it sounds like HVAC/Refrigeration it the trade for you. It’s kind of funny because we tend to get all the people who dropped other trades for various reasons. I work with ex plumbers who didn’t want to deal with shit, I work with journeyman electricians who didn’t want to spend 8 years becomming a master electrician, I work with ex building automation guys who got tired of trying to automate busted equipment. A lot of my coworkers started in other trades, went “This fucking sucks” and switched to HVAC-R.
- Comment on oops 4 weeks ago:
Turn my micro plastics into one of the old mc donalds coke spoons when I die and have everyone at my funeral use it to take a bump of my ashes.
- Comment on What sort of grill needs a firmware update lol 4 weeks ago:
Commercial grills do exactly that. There’s just a thermostat built into the gas valve which uses a sensing bulb to modulate the gas flow based on actual temp and set temp. They don’t even need electricity let alone wifi.
- Comment on Perfect Anatomy 4 weeks ago:
Take me to snurch.
- Comment on Perfect Anatomy 4 weeks ago:
Snanus
- Comment on Call Before You Dig 4 weeks ago:
Yeah, joe shmoe the average homeowner is never going to hit a water main. Those are going to be over 6ft down so there’s basically no way you hit one with a shovel.
- Comment on 98 degrees upstairs, ac stopped working at 8am. 1 month ago:
Not a problem. In my area the bug thing is cottonwood. If you dont have that stuff around the coils stay much easier to clean.
- Comment on 98 degrees upstairs, ac stopped working at 8am. 1 month ago:
My very first maintenance I went down to look at what I needed to do. It’s a trane unit, so the evaporator coil and the condensate pan come out on a slide which is pretty fancy.
If it’s the style I’m thinking of then you are flexing the refrigerant pipes whenever you do that. It’s designed to do that but just be aware that copper work hardens so you can only flex it so many times before it gets brittle and snaps. With your system being new there isn’t too much risk of snapping a line but it won’t be new forever. If it is possible to clean the evap without bending those pipes then that is the best way to do it.
As far as coil cleaner goes the most we ever recommend one of our customers use is just plain water out of a gardenhose (definitely not a pressurewasher). For most people that should be enough. But you’re not my customer so here’s what I use depending on the coil.
For small evap coils like a residential central air system I often use Evap Foam No Rinse. That stuff is pretty gentle and probably fine for most people to use. If kills any growth on the coil and foams up to push dirt out of the coil. Once applied it doesn’t need to be actively rinsed off because it’s designed to be rinsed off just by the condensation that builds up on the coil as the system runs.
For larger evap coils like in commercial roof top units or more heavily soiled evaps I will use either Tri-Pow’r HD or Evap Pow’r-C. I’ve found both to be about equally as effective but the evap cleaner does foam up a bit more. Both are still fairly safe to use but if you mix them more concentrated then you do need to actively rinse off the coil well when you’re done. I have a hard time imagining anyone breaking anything with either of these but technically they can do damage if left on the coil for too long.
When it comes to the new style microchannel condensers, heavily degraded older style fin and tube condensers, or lightly soiled older style condensers, I will also use Tri-Pow’r HD except I will mix it much stronger.
When it comes to heavily soiled older style fin and tube condensers which are otherwise in good physical shape I will use Nu-Brite. Nu-Brite is nasty shit. It will instantly burn skin, melt plastic, strip any oxidation off of metal, etch concrete, strip paint, strip the coating entirely off a coated coil, and, if left on a coil long enough, etch holes through the condenser pipes forcing you to buy a whole new condensing unit. It literally starts to smoke if it sits on the coil too long. It is aggressive as hell but man does it clean coils. I was working at a flour mill recently and made extensive use of this stuff to clean mouldering packed in flour mud out of condensers and it takes no time at all to do it’s job even with the worst soils. This stuff is perfectly safe to use if you use it right but if you don’t use it right then there is basically no fixing the damage it does. If you ever did decide to use it, just be sure to have a hose nearby ready to hose it off as quick and completely as possible. Once it starts foaming and smoking it has started doing damage.
- Comment on 98 degrees upstairs, ac stopped working at 8am. 1 month ago:
Yeah, teating caps is also a pretty regular part of our PM process. Especially because thatbone looks like it may partially be a run cap and a system can often run perfectly fine without a run cap except itnwill cause the motor to pull higher amps and run hotter. Catching a bad run cap early is the difference between replacing a bad cap and replacing a burned up motor.
- Comment on 98 degrees upstairs, ac stopped working at 8am. 1 month ago:
It’s going to depend on the area, but it shouldn’t cost quite that much for residential work. Hell, I’m a commercial refrigeration/hvac mechanic and my bill would still be less for that repair. You actually made me curious so I priced it out. TLDR if you don’t want to read below it comes out to $310 before taxes. So unless you’re in a stupidly expensive area your price should be under that for this repair from a residential HVAC tech. My best guess is that it would cost about $250 in my somewhat low cost of living area if done properly by a residential tech.
Price breakdown-
We upcharge a bit on parts depending on their cost (cheaper parts are upcharged more) but we also get a discounted price from the supply house so the actual upcharge amount is a bit weird to calculate. We do have one of these caps in our system (its 440V instead but oversizing doesn’t hurt) and our unit price (markup included) on it is $25. If this system has other start components then you would want to change those as well but I don’t know what this system looks like so I’m going to assume that only this cap is needed. Depending on the distance from the shop we charge a one time truck charge. However the main reason we have variable truck charges is because we’re more specialized and some of our customers are over 200 miles from our shop. Odds are for residential work you’d be working with a local company and for local work we charge our minimum truck charge of $45. If this was durring business hours then we charge $120 per hour. Afterhours rates are much higher of course but usually nobody is calling a tech afterhours to work on residential AC. Drive times to and from the site are included in the billed hours.
As far as time required a quick cap swap could easily be within our 1 hour minimum depending on drive time to the site but with this situation I would guess 2 hours may be more likely for reasons I’m about to explain. The cap is obviously bulged so any tech worth their salt would pinpoint it immediately. Of course any tech worth their salt is also going to check out the other components to ensure that there isn’t a reason the cap blew. That means checking contactors, compressor windings, and ither caps. Once the new cap is installed that also means checking running amps and inrush current. While you’re at it you’ll want to at least check refrigerant line temps because that’ll give you a rough read on the system charge and state of the coils. For this unit I wouldn’t be hooking gauges up unless something was off with the temps and couldn’t be easily explained. It’s also just a good idea to watch the system run for a bit and make sure it cycles on/off correctly to make sure it’s not short cycling or something. With all that you could be looking at an hour onsite. Depending on the system and the delays you can’t really shave that down much if the tech is going to be able to see the unit run. If you cut out watching the system run basically entirely you can shave 30min off that but that’s also a sure fire way to get a callback for something you didn’t catch. The bigger issue though is that this is a dual value cap. It isn’t going to be standard van stock and until the tech gets onsite they won’t know what cap they need. So you’re looking at that tech also having to make a trip back to the shop to pick up the correct cap. I carry universal caps in my van but those are much more expensive so they’re really only for emergency repairs or to temporarily run a system if we need to order a specific cap. So if we assume 15min from the shop to the customer and the tech has to make that trip 4 times (out to customer, back to get part, back to customer, and back to shop when done) then were looking at an hour just in drive time.
So in total we have 2 hours of $120 per hour labor + $45 truck charge + $25 part = $310 plus relevant taxes.
