Comment on genius

rumba@lemmy.zip ⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

• myotheraccount@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

  Try 200% infill next time

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  • rumba@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

    Have you seen the prices on the non-Euclidean filament these days? Only Voidstar labs can afford that shit.

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• Rooster326@programming.dev ⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

  FYI: Plastic Welding is a thing that exists. Use it literally all the time to fix what my kids break.

  Power Wheel Wheel included. Takes literally seconds to fix a crack

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  • rumba@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

    Image

    Gear D was what broke, it delivers the full thrust to the final axel and take most of the force when the wheel take a hit. there’s no welding that

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• pineapplelover@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨3⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

  You needed to increase walls

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  • Jikiya@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

    At 100% infill, it’s all wall. Though the better bet is probably using the printed part to make a mold.

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    • pineapplelover@lemmy.dbzer0.com ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

      Not sure, might be different. Like the infill might go side to side but walls go up and down. So increasing walls might still give more strength.

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      • rumba@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

        it’s a gear, so you need the layers to be perpendicular to the rotation to give it a chance, but the final drive interface came up off the gear like a tophat. It was not a good candidate for FDM. Realistically, it wasn’t a good candidate for resin either. The tophat really needed to be metal with an interface into resin or nylon for the gear to gear surfaces.

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    • mrgoosmoos@lemmy.ca ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

      nah there’s a difference in print line orientation on all the slicers I’ve used. When printing functional parts like that, especially mechanical ones, you really got to pay attention to printing orientations

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    • Landless2029@lemmy.world ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

      For a use case like this it would be a good use case to do 3D printed casting.

      3D print the part. Mold out of silicon. Then make the final part in resin.

      Or just buy the real part.

      There’s also ways to make plastic parts via injection at home.

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      • rumba@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

        Resin was one of my early thoughts. The original Nylon is pretty tough, and they kept breaking gears. (I think he was overvolting it) He tried replacement boxes but they just broke immediately, he managed to get a couple of original gears at $80 a piece, but they didn’t last long either.

        I think the right answer would have been to replace the motor with something that had a higher Kv and done a belt drive. (like electric skate parts with a little more ratio)

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    • rumba@lemmy.zip ⁨2⁩ ⁨days⁩ ago

      Yeah, even annealing it didn’t help much. I think the original part of the injection-molded nylon was a bit under-specified.

      It would have been a good project for metal, but it would have been 4 years in the box and cost more than the original ride-on.

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