Submitted 5 weeks ago by AutoBot@sub.wetshaving.social [bot] to wetshaving@sub.wetshaving.social
Share your shave of the day!
Sunday, November 17, 2024
I’m less tired than yesterday, but it’s still an effort moving around in the flat.
Have a good evening!
November 17, 2024
This cartridge isn’t feeling as sharp as usual. This particular one only has 4 shaves on it, but it has been sitting in my dopp kit for well over a year. Maybe it’s a dud, or maybe the storage got to it.
I’m doing a run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors from 1906, when the 1912 started production to 1979 when the conveyor belt rolled out last Contour II. For the purposes of this run, I’m defining the 14 generations as follows:
† Still in production by u/EldrormR Industries – GEM Division.
All dates in the list above come from the American Safety Razor Dating Chart here. I hope they are accurate, but haven’t double-checked anything.
This is an opinionated list for at least four reasons: 1) The Damaskeene (open-comb 1912) is different enough from later tyical 1912s to deserve it’s own day, but I don’t have one. 2) The British 1909 isn’t on the list because I have never seen one in the wild. 3) there are three generations of Jewels, but I only have the one, and finally 4) there are images floating around the interwebs of an adjustable GEM Pushbutton, but it’s a kind of a phantom and I’m not sure it ever was more than a prototype.
The 1912
The first GEM razor, and also my gateway into the SE Cult. In 2021, u/Semaj3000 recommended me to try a 1912 at first, because they are good shavers and cheap. Specifically, he recommended me to trawl French eBay for the Star version called “Cadet”, because the Bakelite cases of the day had blade banks with the French inscription “lames”, which amused him. As you can see in the SOTD picture, I followed his advice and indeed found a razor and case in great condition. Since I never fall halfway into a rabbit hole, I also ended up getting a British-made 1912 which came with NOS contemporary Corrux blades with the fun Ever-Ready maskot, and a pretty US-made one with the iconic art deco “chain-link” handle. Back then u/Semaj3000 and u/VisceralWatch were at peak vintage razor thrill, and I learned a lot about GEM razors in a hurry from them.
This first GEM razor has already half of what I consider the genius of this line of razors: Unlike DE razors with a single degree of freedom in their clamping mechanism, the 1912 has two springs, one clamping the blade down, and one pushing on the spine, firmly locking the edge in place against the blade stops. This is why GEM razors always have an absolutely reproducible exposure and gap, regardless of the geometric tolerances of GEM blades, unlike DE razors and all modern GEM razors.
The shave
Once you get the hang of GEM razors (which is easy), the 1912 gives great shaves to the sound of buttering toast. Verbena Toscana is a lovely summery scent, and I really like the AYLM hard soap base. 4711 and Farina are lovely, but they don’t last very long.
Cool chart. What’s the source? Might be good to add to the wiki for posterity.
November 17, 2024
Brush: Wald Stratos Goldvein 29mm A1 Fan
Blade Holder: Blackland Razors Blackbird Ti
Blade: Personna Lab Blue (13)
Lather: Saponificio Varesino - Opuntia - Soap
Aftershave: Saponificio Varesino - Opuntia - Aftershave
Fragrance: Creed - Aventus
2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.
The SV scents are so sophisticated I feel like an imposter using them. Very nice second luxury shave this evening.
Nov 17, 2024
Second shave with a patent 1912 razor, this time with a US-made Ever-Ready 1912 with the iconic art deco / chain link handle introduced in 1927. It’s a very simple razor head made from just a few pieces of bent sheets of brass (and possibly steel for the spring), but this razor was produced for almost 50 years for a reason. This simple design gives great shaves and must have been very cost competitive to produce compared to later models, which all involve deep drawn, cast, or machined pieces.
It is telling that this first and simplest GEM razor also had the longest run. Over the next two weeks we’ll visit its more and more complicated and technically brilliant cousins, but not successors. It will survive them all.
Lavanille and Pure Lavender are a fantastic combo.
This was shave two of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors.
gcgallant@sub.wetshaving.social 4 weeks ago
November 17, 2024
Brush: Zenith B15 (506 U/L) 27.5mm Boar
Blade Holder: GEM Damaskeene CC (1912-1920)
Blade: Personna Gem PTFE (8)
Lather: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag - Soap
Aftershave: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag - Aftershave
Fragrance: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag - Eau de Parfum
2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.
I’m takin’ a ride with my Staaaag … There’s really nothing like the Midnight Stag trifecta to start your day. I was getting some odd glances in the store while shopping for junk food for the Sunday afternoon games, but I felt more accepted by the forest wildlife on my morning hike.
@djundjila@sub.wetshaving.social is doing a run through all 14 generations of GEM razors. I only have 3 of them. This Damaskeene happens to be one that he doesn’t have. I have the MMOC Gen2 and Flying Wing also. The EldrormR Industries MM24 that I own is still in production and doesn’t factor into the 14 generations.
If I weren’t so deep into the straight razor side of this hobby, I would collect more examples of these GEM razors. The design and execution of them is very well done, and the ones I have tried have been great shavers.
djundjila@sub.wetshaving.social 4 weeks ago
Stag + forest hike sounds like a good mix. I was bicycling in the forest with Djunior today, but I wasn’t as well integrated as you :)
gcgallant@sub.wetshaving.social 4 weeks ago
Everything is improved when you wear the Staaaaag :)
My father was a member of something called the Appalachian Trail Club. He would take me on hikes and to trail maintenance events when I was Djunior’s age. I wasn’t thrilled to come along at the time, but something stuck. By the time he reached the age I am now, I found ways to accompany him on a lot of short trail hikes.