Comment on How to get greasy spots out of wooden cutting board properly?
ExtremeUnicorn@feddit.org 5 days agoNot the person you asked, but I recently did some finish tests with natural drying oils.
Besides tung oil, linseed oil, hemp oil and perilla oil, the wallnut oil dried the slowest by far (talking weeks of difference) and needs added airflow and UV light to make anything happen (tung oil and perilla oil even dry out in the dark).
Besides, there’s the slight chance of an undried pocket coming into contact with someone who is allergic.
In my opinion, not worth it with those great alternatives.
I might have used “bad” walnut oil, I had only one sample, but it was unprocessed, organic walnut oil, the expensive stuff. Maybe you need to use the refined, cheap oil to get better results for woodworking.
Atelopus-zeteki@fedia.io 5 days ago
My experience is different. Dries in a day, or less. Shrug. I'll keep using walnut, works just fine for my kitchen ware. I've used tung and linseed oil for furniture.
ExtremeUnicorn@feddit.org 4 days ago
Are you maybe using some kind of processed oil with dryers?
Because I haven’t been able to get any natural oil to dry faster than maybe a couple of days to a week. That was on pieces of foil sitting in the sunlight with constant airflow.
So inside of a workpiece, I would assume it will even take much longer than that.
turdburglar@piefed.social 4 days ago
i’m not sure what yall are calling “dry” but generally when applying penetrating oil finishes, one applies a generous amount to the wood, waits a given amount of time, usually a 20 minutes to an hour, and then wipes off the excess. then you flip the rag over and wipe it again. then again. ultimately you want the rag to come back clean and then you’re done.
that’s pretty much it. it’s as dry as it needs to be to be before buffing, waxing, or buffing and waxing the surface.
if you’re waiting days for the oils to dry, it seems likely to me that you’re leaving way too much oil on the wood.